LAKE GARDA

This should have been posted last week but seems it got overlooked in  drafts – better late than never!!  Just sooooo busy!

As the blog said last year –not a lot to report when lazing around Lake Garda – campsite is right on the lake with restaurant and bar overlooking water.



Every evening Graham goes for swim off the pontoon (see background) and I sit and ponder the world with a cappuccino (decaff, but no flat whites in Italy, Niki!!) (see foreground)

We wander up to the village (although less inclined since the parking fine!) with church and square and ice cream parlour. and go to the local port for ferries around the lake.  And sit around reading and doing computery things – big improvement on campsite this year, wifi in the tent, so no trips to MacDonalds for free wifi – shame. 

Thought this was a bit unusual seeing a remote controlled platform entering the church porch
But then saw it inside dealing with a problem at the high window – so that’s alright.








Took the ferry to Salo on Saturday for market day – local cheeses and
barbecue stuff. 

There were also these stalls along the front – just like Art on the Prom in Grange-Over-Sands!  Only Farmers market stuff as well as crafty things.

VENEZIA – 37 YEARS ON

Have survived 3 days at Camp Fusina – still standing after 37 years and even met a chef who started work there in 1975 and also the owner who bought it in 1965!!  So had a few reminisces about gigantic pizzas and how travellers have changed.  Still full of travelling young ‘uns in Contiki tour buses, but now also plenty of PLU’s in campervans, so an interesting mix of folk in the bar. 

Young and old until 7.30’ish, then youth takes over and partying until the early hours – was OK for first night in our basic camping cabin, but then Fri/Sat the bus tour from Poland deposited a stack of 18/19 year olds in adjacent cabins.  Even the ear plugs had a job keeping us asleep – but hey, what do you expect for 20e a night. 

We survived to enjoy 3 days of sightseeing around Venice and wore out the pedometer getting lost, visiting numerous churches and just enjoying the atmosphere – really is nowhere like it.

For a fuller comparison of our trips to Italy between 1975 and 2012 see separate posting – to be composed tomorrow during the long trip to Germany and 2 nights at Rothenburg – a bit of humour to round off the blog.

For now just to say that Venice has been brilliant and include few well known photos

Old Boat house with interesting collection of fans, gondola hats and bits of wood

Rialto bridge – full of people, rubbishy shops and all that graffiti you can see on the back of the shops – not a great sight at all.

View along the main front – a constant hustle and bustle of boats, ferries, gondolas and people.

On our way in on our ferry from the campsite every day we see all the cruise liners – up to 5 or 6 and Queen Elizabeth came in – dwarfing all ships and Venice itself.

Endless photo opportunities of gondolas and canals

St Marks Basilica – just amazing and we spent 2-3 hrs wandering all round it and out on the balconies – unforgettable (except Graham had forgotten it from last time!  wonder why?)


Some of the shop fronts – loads of them full of masks and outrageous costumes for the festivals

Gondola trips were still unaffordable at 80-120 euros – but we got this one to ourselves for a 1 minute trip across the canal – 2 euros each- a bargain!!

And a final entry in the “Unsettling Animal” photo competition – cat suckling about 6 kittens, all bigger than she was.  Ouch!!

PLANNING IS EVERYTHING, THE PLAN IS NOTHING

Every year we plan our camping trips well ahead – maps, campsite books, travel guides, Google, Tripadviser, friends recommendations – and every year we never stick wholly to the Plan.  Most years it is the mountain weather that indicates summer is over and tents are no longer a good idea, and we decamp to the South or wherever the sun still shines – the Spanish coast, Algarve or as per last year, Lake Garda.

This year we changed our minds over the middle campsite we had identified in the Brenta Dolomites and found the one at Carisolo – quieter, nicer and an excellent choice.  Then it was on to Lake Garda for 10 days of sun before returning to the flooded out UK.

Except the rain has hit Northern Italy much as it has at home – and not just the mountains this time.  Garda has been cloudy for several days and a couple of storms in the last few days – BUT the forecast for Friday to Sunday is wet, wet, wet (Hmm – sure that was the name of some band or other!).  So potentially a wet (x3) tent to take down on Monday for travel back home – plus the idea of Garda is to wallow in the sun, pottering around on scenic ferry rides and generally admiring the views.

So glad we didn’t pressurise our friends Rob and Lin to join us in Lake Garda for a week!

So, the decision was made – cut the camping in tents and move to Venice for 4 nights.  Amazed to see a recommended campsite in Venice in our Alan Rogers “bible” is Camping Fusina – we stayed there in 1975 for a few debauched nights, as part of our cheapo, month long, camping holiday in 2 person tent (no groundsheet or mats).  It was then run by, and for, Aussies – all on their 2 year gap years roaming Europe.  St Marks, gondolas, bridges of sighs etc., take second place in the memory banks, to boozing Aussies standing on the dining tables and mooning at us, the piles of puke outside each tent door in the morning and the non-use of provided facilities during the night.       Hope it is a bit improved nowadays! 

We are taking a small camping hut at 20e a night – cheaper than tenting it and when it does rain we don’t have wet tents to deal with on Monday morning, before a long drive back to Germany.  Plus we have all the camping gear with us to deal with a basic hut and just share facilities as we would if we were camping.  We know it has great access to Venice by a ferry, just by the campsite, so it avoids expensive hotels, negotiating Venice by car and we get to revisit all the sights we have now forgotten about due to ‘70’s hangovers.

Question is - is this the Final Plan?

ROMANS + ROMEO AND JULIET

As part of the shower avoidance plans, we have been doing ferry trips to lovely little spots on Lake Garda – storm approaching Gargnano below, but we had had 5 hours walking and sitting in sun



in the morning – weather forecasts a bit more reliable here than island UK, so have been able to plan a few days ahead.  Think this is our favourite village/town – not as touristy as the east side of the Lake and too small for coaches to get to – much more genteel!  And discovered D H Lawrence stayed here 100 years ago and wrote ”Twilight in Italy”  - this is where he lived.

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VERONA

Got a train from local station for 6e return to Verona and had a busy walking day around the sights – for those who have been, a few reminders, and those still to go, a taster of the historic Roman Arena, churches galore and delightful old squares, buildings and streets

Not forgetting Juliet’s balcony (??? but that’s what they say!)

Bit puzzled by what we were forbidden to do

So, ate our ice creams standing up, didn’t hold hands and had our short siesta sitting upright on the bench.

THINGS HAPPEN IN THREES

Drove down to Lake Garda on Thursday – getting colder in the mountains and so time to move on.  Carisolo has been a great place to stay  in the Brenta Dolomites and loads to do just in walking distance of the campsite.


This is was walking distance to the cable car, a great ridge walk with views both sides to the top (ski lift down), and couldn’t resist staying up there for several hours with coffees and deck chairs and contemplating our lucky lives.

After the 2nd day of rain in 2 weeks on Wednesday, it meant that the drive was clear and sunny all the way along the stunning west side of Lake Garda – last year, and I suspect most of the summer, it is viewless because of the pollution.  It is pretty narrow and windy road and busy even in mid-September – hate to think what it is like in summer.  M25 with views I suspect.



Staying at same campsite as last year (Ideal Molina in San Felice near Salo), with similar activities that may not provoke too many blogs – here is last years blog on Lake Garda – same waterwheel, different tent and slightly different view – see right.  We wanted site near to ours last year, but it was taken, but as they were moving the next day we agreed to pitch just the tent, not extension and the rest of the paraphenalia. 

Big mistake not to use groundsheet, as next day bottom of tent was all dirty and wet and had to dry it out before moving sideways to new venue.

Second mistake – going to local village for big shop and not noticing we needed parking disc – came back in 20 minutes to find 40 euro fine!     Decided not to argue it, based on previous brush with the Italian law in 1975, when caught speeding through village (avoiding expensive toll roads – lesson well learned!), and Graham tried to remonstrate as they waved a 3 million lira (or whatever) on the spot fine at him – they then waved a 10 million lira bit of paper at him – he paid up the 3m!

Luckily had a minor third mistake, when we lost a teaspoon – but as things go in threes, figured we didn’t then have to keep worrying and looking out for another big mistake.
 
But – cleaned and moved tent, paid fine at Post Office in Salo, after nice ferry ride, with coffee shop next door – see right - and found teaspoon next day.

So, all is well with the world again – low 70’s temperatures, if cloudier than we would want – but hey, after our summer, this is heaven.

SUNDAY MOTORCYCLE RUMBLES + DISAPPEARING GLACIERS

New area to discover on the other side of the Brenta Dolomites – now at second campsite at Carisolo and, as usual at this time of year, there is only us in a tent.  Not many Campervans here either, all seem to be up nearer the sprawling ski resort of Madonna di Campiglio, whereas this is a lovely little village at the start of a popular scenic valley, Val di Genova.  Walked a mile or so up the valley on the first day – in the summer you have to park at the beginning and get a bus, but by Monday we were able to drive all the way and for free.  Kentmere Valley take note!!



Walked up a different route later and found that motorcyclists the world over gather together on Sundays wherever there is a bridge, river and snack bar.  For those in the Lakes think, Kirkby Lonsdale – without the major waterfall – but with more stylish riders and female companions!

Then on Monday we drove all the way up the valley for 10km or more (for free after the season finished) – one of the best valley drives with steep, steep sides, zig zagging road in forests, punctuated by rivers, waterfalls and country restaurants

At the end, where only buses usually go, we parked up and were surrounded by massive granite peaks – and evidence of disappearing glaciers – 1890, 2003, 2012 – nothing left.

But at least the mountains will be here for a while and people are looking after them and building bridges – despite my previous post and sample of decaying

 bridges!

DANCE OF DEATH AND CHURCH ART - 15TH AND 21ST CENTURIES

It is always amazing that wherever you go, even not knowing anything about an area, there is always something to see of interest on your doorstop.  Here at Carisolo, just 15 mins walk from our tent, is a this well known church  of St. Stefano – with outside and indoor frescoes painted in 15th C but church been here since 11th C.  The paintings were good enough outside but stunning inside (restored)



Down one wall was a huge mural of the Last Supper and, in a special exhibition that was just on for the summer, some talented glass-blower had faithfully recreated the fresco in coloured glass.  Fishes on the plates, knives, loaves of bread, wine – quite brilliant.  Also on the right hand side there is a red  rawn (abundant in local rivers at the time) on the floor – we nearly picked it up until we saw it was part of the painting! 



Wouldn’t want the glass on my mantlepiece but can appreciate the skill.

Difficult to see on the outside, on the second row down, but repeated in another nearby church is the Dance of Death -  in which the skeletons shadow the rich and poor and great and lowly in a long procession from beginning to end ie Death will get you all regardless of money or position.
The theme was widespread in Europe in the 14-1600s and if you are really interested, this link will tell you more.

We listened to a great audio tour about all the frescoes - lots of saints and St. Stephen in particular with his stoning to death fairly prominent.

Reminded us of all the volunteers at home at churches and other local functions – without them so much would be lost culturally.  This church is only open in the summer and manned for several hours each day to prevent further thefts of the irreplaceable contents.